The women who brought back the blood orange: Mersinden

In a village schoolhouse in Hamzabeyli, restored from a ruin and opened only this winter, one of the villagers, Fatma is explaining how Mersin came to hold the geographical indication (GI) for its blood orange. Someone gently suggests the registration must have come from somewhere above: the city, a ministry, an official desk in Ankara. She won't let it stand. "Yok," she says. "Biz götürdük." No. We took it there ourselves.